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Energy Efficiency - How you can make BIG long-term savings if you invest in Green Technology NOW!!

Services provided by Yonico
Services provided by Yonico

Energy A-Rated Windows & Doors

It is well known within the glazing industry that approximately 15% of a homes energy is lost through its windows and doors. Now with our efficient energy A Rated double-glazing and super efficient energy A+ Rated triple-glazing, you can reduce your energy heating bills by upto a third.

On average, electricity/gas bills are in the region of £40-50 each per month. That’s a total of £960 or more per year for both. With our new Energy A Rated windows, you could wipe out a third of those costs (£320). Over time, your Double Glazing Windows will actually pay for themselves (Results generated by the Energy Savings Calculator on the Glass & Glazing Federation Website).










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Secondary Glazing

Typically installed in conservation areas or in situations where the original windows can either not be removed or do not provide adequate acoustic and thermal insulation. Secondary Glazing is approximately around 15% of the cost of conventional double glazing and virtually eliminates condensation. It can also save you up to 25% off your heating fuel bills. But one of its best performing attributes is its ability to substantially reduce noise for properties on very busy roads, flight paths or near railways.







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Roof & Loft Insulation

As we all know – heat rises! Therefore, all the heat energy in your home will eventually find its way up into the loft or the roof voids and will try its best to escape. To stop this heat escaping through the roof, we recommend installing roof/loft insulation wherever possible to keep that valuable energy inside your home.

An uninsulated home can loose up to 25% of that valuable heat energy through the roof.


How much could you save? Loft Insulation 0–270mm
Approximate saving per year Upto £180
Installation costs Around £450
Time to pay back Approx 2 years













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Wall Insulation - Solid Walls

If your home was built pre 1920, then its external walls are probably a solid brick wall rather than cavity walls. Cavity walls are made of two brickwalls tied together and have a small gap or ‘cavity’ between them. Solid walls have no cavity, so they conduct more heat through.

Solid walls let through twice as much heat as cavity walls do, but the good news is that they can be insulated from either inside or outside. Installation costs are more than cavity wall insulation, but the savings on your heating bills will be much bigger too.

Over a third of the heat energy lost in an uninsulated home is lost through the walls. Heat always moves towards cold areas, so cold outside walls attract more of the heat energy you’ve paid for.





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Wall Insulation - Cavity Walls

Most houses built since the 1990’s now have insulated walls as standard, however, if your home was built between 1920 and 1990, then it is very likely to be an open cavity wall with no insulation at all.

Your home will be suitable for cavity insulation as long as your walls are not already filled, the cavity is more than 50mm, the walls are not exposed to driving rain, the masonry or brickwork is in good condition and the property is more than 10 years old (newer homes will be insulated already).

The process is quick and simple; The fitter will drill 22mm holes every square 1m for a consistent fill. Insulation is then blown in through the holes and once the holes are then re-filled with mortar, you’ll barely notice them.




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Floor Insulation - Solid Floors

Solid floor insulation can typically only be installed when the concrete is being laid. It is usually installed as a requirement when an underfloor heating system is also being installed. The insulation needs to be below the concrete slab so that all the heat energy is directed upwards towards the room.

Concrete slabs are inherentally cold, so the insulation needs to be approximately 200mm thick rigid foam in order for an noticable heat gain from the underfloor heating system.

When insulated correctly and sufficiently, these are extremely energy efficient flooring compositions, which will save alot of money long-term.





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Floor Insulation - Suspended Floors

Insulating beneath the floor boards on the ground floor is a good way of stopping your heat energy being lost. This can typically save you from £60 per year and more on bigger homes. If you also seal the gaps between the skirtings and the floor, this will reduce draughts and add another £25 savings per year.

The most cost effective way of insulating between the rafters is by lifting the floorboards and laying mineral wool suspended by netting. The rigid foam insulation method is a little more costly for the installation but the energy savings are greater.






Type of Insulation Savings per year Cost of Insulation Payback time CO2 saving
Loft Attic 270mm Insulation £180 £450 Approx 2 yrs 0.1 tons
Flat Roof 100mm Insulation £180 £1200 - £3000 Approx 6yrs 0.2tons
Solid Wall Insulation - External £600 £9000 - £15,000 Approx 15 yrs 2.0 tons
Solid Wall Insulation - Internal £460 £5000 - £9000 Approx 10 yrs 1.8 tons
Cavity Wall Insulation £140 £1000 Approx 7 yrs 0.5 tons
Solid Floor Insulation £220 £1000 - £3000 Approx 4 yrs 0.5 tons
Suspended Floor Insulation £85 £800 Approx 9 yrs 0.3 tons

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Low Energy Lighting

Electrical lighting accounts for more than a third of our entire electrical usage at home. So choosing the right lighting can be a very efficient way of saving serious cash in the long run. If you use traditional incandescent light bulbs at home then it’s likely that you energy usage is 5 times higher than it should be.

Take a look at our light bulb comparison chart, which shows how much energy can be saved just by using the right type of lighting in your home without sacrificing the amount of light or the instant warm-up times..

We are also on call for any advice and can assist with any electrical lighting installation requirements you may need.



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Voltage Optimiser

The electricity distribution network in the UK operates at a nominal Voltage of 230V, although the usual average voltages are usually more likely to be in the range of 240V and 245V (Volts). The Voltage optimiser unit is able to make sure that the voltage remains at a stable level, which is normally 220V in the UK, no matter what the voltage of the incoming supply.

The amount of energy saved is dependant on the device or appliance, for example: when Voltage Optimiser testing was carried out on fridges and freezers, they showed a 17% decrease in energy usage, a 15% decrease was recorded on normal light bulbs and a 10% decrease on energy saving light bulbs, which is as well as the already low energy usage that voltage optimisers can provide. One digital cordless phone showed an extraordinary saving of 44% decrease in energy usage. Savings will vary depending on the incoming voltage and individual devices.

Voltage Optimisers can also help make further savings on appliances such as washing machines, tumble driers, dishwashers, televisions and a number of other electrical appliances across the whole house.


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Magnetic Conditioners

Magnetic Conditioners are also known as Magnetic Water Conditioners or Gas Fuel Miser. When using these handy magnets on a gas supply, it has proven that the magnetic field had no effect on the gas whatsoever. However, when a magnetic field was added it resulted in the gas becoming slightly magnetised. Oxygen is a paramagnetic gas which means that it is attracted to a magnetic field therefore resulting in more oxygen being attracted to the flame than usual meaning that a better Oxygen/Gas mix is achieved. Due to this better mix, the flame will then become ever so slightly shorter and brighter but this then means that the temperature at which the gas is burnt then increases from about 780°C up to nearly 900°C.



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The increase of the temperature then allows the gas to be more completely burnt, which then results in a cleaner, more efficient burn being produced. This therefore means that the exhaust leaving the boiler will contain significantly less unburnt gas meaning that the level of Carbon Monoxide (which should never be very high anyway) is practically non-existent. This also then results in there being a lot less soot deposits within your boiler as well which you will benefit from as it contributes towards extending the life of your boiler.


Services provided by Yonico Services provided by Yonico

Central Heating Controls

Well manufactured central heating controls will help you heat your home in a more efficient way and will therefore lead to a decrease in your fuel bills. And the best part is you don't need to wait until you replace your boiler to get started. A Central Heating timer or programmer allows you to have control of when your heating and hot water comes on and when it goes off.

This comes in handy as it means you can programme your central heating to fit around the way your home is used and your schedule as there is no point inhaving the heating on during the day if you aren't going to be in. If for example you're not at home or are in bed asleep, then you have no need for the heating to be switched on. The best way to heat your home efficiently is to set up your heating so that it comes on half an hour before you get home or get up, and then set it to switch off half an hour before you no longer need it. The reason behind this is because an average home will take around 30mins to heat up when the heating is turned on and 30mins to cool down when it is turned off.

If you have a hot-water tank then the water in the tank will need to be heated up throughout the course of the day. The amount of times the water is required be heated up ia dependant on how big and how well insulated your hot-water tank is, and is also dependant on the amount of water that your household uses on a daily basis. If you have a hot water tank, then your thermostat should be set to 60-65°C: which is the temperature that is hot enough to kill bacteria.


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Thermostatic Radiator Valves

Thermostatic Radiator Valves or TRVs are appliances that allow you to have control over the temperature of a room by controlling the amount of water that flows through the radiator. For example, when you are at hpme during the day and you happen to spend most of your day downstairs then you could set the TRVs on the downstairs radiators to medium or high, whilst the upstairs radiators are on low, or even turning them off altogether.